Well, I missed documenting the starter re-installation because it went so smoothly. One thing I learned is that it helps to loop a strap around it and have someone bear the weight of the starter from above while positioning it and re installing the bolts and wires. My Dad recently spent four days visiting me and we were able to replace the hood rockets and the five piece front bumper. We also got the rear lights and bumper removed before we ran out of time. Pictures and explanations to come...
I laid out the kit and tackled the rebuild job one evening with the help of a borrowed soldering iron.
The Offending Solenoid
Rebuild Kit
As I removed the end piece from the solenoid, I was encouraged to discover that the bolt that connects to the starter had broken loose from the soldered solenoid wire. This told me that the power would not get to the starter even if the solenoid made a proper connection. That did not, however, explain why the lever was not engaging and throwing the gear into position to engage the flywheel. Note the worn contacts on the circular contact disk in the middle of the solenoid in the picture below.
Broken Solder on Bolt Head
Installed: gasket, center contact & spring, wire lead (not yet soldered)
After one finger burn, several failed attempts at soldering the rebuild kit contact wire from the solenoid to
the starter contact post, and some soldering assistance from my 21 yr old daughter (she builds LED Hula Hoops as a hobby), the rebuilt solenoid was ready for testing.
'56 Chevy Starter Solenoid - Rebuilt (L) and New (R)
The first part of the video shows the rebuilt solenoid exhibiting the same behavior as the old solenoid. Oh, well, it was worth the $25 to gamble on the rebuild kit versus the $75 price tag on the new one.
As it turns out, it was the main body of the solenoid that was bad. I had to buy the new one anyway. All in all a great learning process that I really enjoyed even though it came at a very inopportune time.
Next up, re-installing the starter in the Bel Air in hopes that I can sell it.
I scheduled a meeting with a potential buyer for my red '57 Bel Air last week. Determined to make a good first impression, I uncovered it, vacuumed it out, wiped it down, started it up and ran it around the block, then staged it nicely in the driveway.
When he arrived, we exchanged pleasantries and I handed him the keys while giving him a run down of the history of the vehicle and what I had done to it to this point. I encouraged him to start it up, anticipating the smooth rumble of that rebuilt Edelbrock carb.
He turned the key and....absolutely nothing. Sigh. Is this car named "Christine"? Does it not want to leave me? Forty-five minutes of trouble shooting later. No progress. It's dark. I apologize and promise to let him know when I figure out what the problem is.
I figure it must be the ignition switch, battery, battery cables, solenoid or starter. My first run at the battery tells me that it is low. Subsequent tests tell me it is fine. There is no neutral cut off switch. Given my level of experience, I do the smart thing and hit the Trifive.com forum for some help. Via deft questioning they are able to tell me that it is most likely the solenoid or the starter.
A quick YouTube search turns up some good videos on how to diagnose solenoid and starter problems. I highly recommend this video as well as videos by EricTheCarGuy. I am a visual learner and nothing beats being able to see someone actually doing it.
I dream of a big garage with a hydraulic lift.
I jacked up the Bel Air, crawled underneath and was able to jumper the hot cable to the S terminal on the solenoid which is supposed to engage the solenoid. Nothing. I then jumpered the hot wire to the starter terminal and heard it spin. Big clue that it is probably the solenoid. I then spent about an hour unhooking wires and getting just the right tool in just the right position to be able to loosen the bolts on the starter and remove it. Ever try to hold a bowling ball up with one hand while laying on your back...for 15 minutes?
After getting the starter/solenoid assembly detached from the beast I put it on my work bench, hooked up some jumper cables to it and was able to duplicate the tests detailed in the YouTube video. Definitely the solenoid.
I took some time to examine the starter closely. It definitely looked like an original and was caked with a baked on layer of grease, dirt and oil. I was able to see a metal plate on one side and spent several minutes with a rag, brake cleaner and a wire brush and was able to reveal the original identification plate. Delco Remy with a serial number. Would love to know what the number reveals. This is part of the allure of these vehicles for me. Solving puzzles, learning new things and digging into a little bit of history.
NOT the part I need
The gaping maw that contains the flywheel.
Another internet search showed me that what was being sold as a '57 Chevy Bel Air starter solenoid was not exactly what was laying on my work bench. A visit to Advance Auto Parts was no help. The very nice man working there even searched a paper catalog with no success. He suggested NAPA. (My cousin Jimmy Payne will love that.) The guy who works at the local Napa Auto Parts store looks like he may have built the first American automobile himself - and that is a compliment because he has that depth of knowledge. He looked at it and checked his computer and quickly told me that someone had modified my car at some point because the starter solenoid is a 1956 model. The solenoid I needed would cost about $75 plus shipping but a rebuild kit would be about $25 total. Rebuilding the one I have sounds like a fun challenge and I am a bit cheap so I opted for the rebuild kit. Will let you all know how it goes.
(Sung to the tune of "Rawhide")
This evening I disassembled the old door panels from the silver Belair and salvaged the chrome trim. All four panels are original and definitely showing their age.
Back Door Panel
Front Door Panel
The original cloud pattern cloth was sewn to the cardboard backing.
The silver insert has its own cardboard backing.
I took plenty of pictures since I plan to recreate the original design with new/modern materials.
The chrome is the most expensive part and I am fortunate in that all of it is in very good condition. It should be easy to reuse.
My wife was kind enough to do the tracing of the inner cardboard while I kneeled on it to smooth out the bumps and wrinkles.
I am looking for some ABS plastic sheets to cut and trim to size. Original pattern cloth and vinyl is available online. I will need to figure out how to secure it to the door.
Sometimes you find a deal that is just impossible to pass up. Yes, I bought another one. Why? Great price and everything short of a total frame-off restoration already completed. It needs to have the chrome put back on and the interior redone.
Consequently, I am selling my red '57 Belair ASAP (http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/3173821897.html) but I continue to tweak the basics on it. This week I am replacing the battery cables, exhaust manifold gasket and oil pan gasket. I may also do the rear main seal while the silver one is getting a good once over from Milestone Paint and Body.
I plan to pull the interior door panels from the red one and make some templates so that I can create new panels out of ABS plastic for the silver one. My goal is to do most, if not all, of the interior myself. Seatbelts are already on order (three point for the front). Looking forward to visiting my friend Jason who has offered to weld in the pillar anchors for me.
The best part of the red Belair has been the trip with my dad to buy it and joy rides with the neighbors. Looking forward to focusing on the new Belair.
Monday, July 2, 2012
Belair Trivia
Sedan? Post? Hardtop?
I have been a bit confused about the terminology used to describe model types so I did a little research and came up with this from Custom Chevys, Inc.
I keep getting these questions about what a "Hardtop" really is. Well, in short words, a "Hardtop" is a Coupe, totally different from a Sedan, 2 Doors or 4 Doors. Moreover, many Classic Car Collectors try making a comparison between:
a) 2 Doors Post (2 Doors Sedan) And 2 Doors No Post (2 Doors Hardtop)
b) 4 Doors Post (4 Doors Sedan) And 4 Doors No Post (4 Doors Hardtop)
The truth is, there should be no comparison between a 2 Doors Post and a 2 Doors No Post. The first one is a SEDAN, while the second one is a COUPE, and there is a world of difference among the two. In fact it was called "HARDTOP", given its resemblance to a Convertible, with the exception that the TOP was not "SOFT", as in the Convertible.
By the same reasoning, there should be no comparison between a 4 Doors Post and a 4 Doors No Post. The first one is, again, a SEDAN, while the second one is a COUPE.
While 2 Doors Hardtops can be found anywhere within the so called "Tri-5's", Chevrolet built the first 4 Doors Hardtop in the second half of 1956, to fill the demand for a Sports vehicle with the convenience of 4 Doors. Hence, there is no "1955 4 Doors Hardtop".
The production run for the 1956 4 Doors Hardtop was limited by time, so there are not too many left, unlike the 1957, which had a full production run; so there are still alot them on the road.
HARDTOPS, -2 Doors or 4 Doors- are vehicles with a much lower Top profile. So much so that the windshield on Hardtops is about 1" lower than in Sedans. Sedans are easly identified by two obvious points: 1) They have a Post. 2) The top is much higher, and sort of "bubble-like".
Here are the facts; Let them be Bel Air, 210, or 150. (or perhaps any 50's car):
1. A 2 Doors Post is in fact, a SEDAN; it is identical to a 4 Doors Sedan with the exception that it has 2 Doors instead of 4. In reality, a 2 Doors Post is so much like a 4 Doors Post, that even the windshield and back glass are the same high. Remember, it's still a SEDAN.
2. A Hardtop or Coupe, is a totally different story, 2 Doors or 4 Doors; On a Hardtop the Top of the car is much more lower, lower than any Sedan, 2 or 4 Doors. The main characteristic of a Hardtop is the lack of that (annoying?) Post in the middle of the car.
3. A Hardtop, 2 Doors or 4 Doors, will have no Post and the windshield high would be about 1" less than Sedans, making the car's Top look much lower, without that "bubble" effect seen on Sedans.
4. Finally if we take 50's definitions:
a) Sedans are 2 or 4 Doors, but they both got that "Post".
b) Hardtops or Coupes are 2 or 4 Doors, but they lack that "Post"
c) Sedans have that "high Top" with the Post in the middle (even if they have 2 Doors)
d) Hardtops have that "low profile Top" without the Post, with a windshield high just as the Convertible, which makes cars so streamlined, given them that style that collectors love.
Some unwise collectors tend to look at these vehicles based on the number of doors, 2 Doors or 4 Doors, but...
Unfortunately, they find out (sometimes too late) that a 2 Doors Post car looks almost identical than a 4 Doors Sedan, with the "bubble" Top and that Post in the middle.
Bottom Line: 2 or 4 Doors doesn't make the difference. What makes the difference is POST or NO POST.
This tells me that what I have is a 4 door sedan (has the post).
I took some time to examine the starter closely. It definitely looked like an original and was caked with a baked on layer of grease, dirt and oil. I was able to see a metal plate on one side and spent several minutes with a rag, brake cleaner and a wire brush and was able to reveal the original identification plate. Delco Remy with a serial number. Would love to know what the number reveals. This is part of the allure of these vehicles for me. Solving puzzles, learning new things and digging into a little bit of history. 
Sometimes you find a deal that is just impossible to pass up. Yes, I bought another one. Why? Great price and everything short of a total frame-off restoration already completed. It needs to have the chrome put back on and the interior redone. 